Info point 9
The Matterhorn
The Matterhorn is 4,478 m high and thus one of the highest mountains in the Alps. The Matterhorn is THE landmark of Switzerland and one of the most photographed mountains in the world. Like a magnetic triangle, the “Horu”, as it is affectionately known by locals, attracts attention in droves, and is a much photographed and filmed motif. The unique rock faces are impressive, as they stand out from the rest of the mountain chain and soar steeply into the sky.
Facts and figures about the Matterhorn
Height: 4,478 m
First ascent: Friday, 14 July 1865
First climbers: Edward Whymper, Douglas R. Hadow, Charles Hudson, Francis Douglas, Michel-Auguste Croz, Peter Taugwalder father, Peter Taugwalder son. Fell to death on descent: Douglas R. Hadow, Charles Hudson, Francis Douglas and Michel-Auguste Croz.
Starting point for the ascent: Hörnli Hut
The first ascent
On 13 July 1865, eight climbers set off for the Matterhorn early in the morning.
Via Schwarzsee they headed across the ridge towards Hörnli, and then climbed over to the east face and pitched their tent. While Croz and the young Peter Taugwalder explored how to continue and decided on the route for the next section, the rest of the group prepared for the next day’s ascent. At the same time, Jean-Antoine Carell and his companions on the Italian side had been preparing for the ascent of the Matterhorn for three days, so they needed to act quickly.
The first ascent was completed on 14 July 1865 at 1.15 pm. One ascent had been completed – apparently without major difficulties. The English proudly attached an old shirt to a staff, stuck it in the ground and hoisted their “flag” on the summit. They could see the Italian group further down.
After just under an hour at the top, they started off on their descent. They had not gone far, in fact were only 300 metres below the summit, when Hadow slipped and fell on Croz, the leading mountain guide. The two fell down the rock face together, pulling the two Englishmen Hudson and Douglas, who were attached to the rope, with them. Quick-witted as he was, Taugwalder’s father wrapped the rope around a stone, but the rope between him and Douglas was not strong enough and broke. The four climbers fell on the Matterhorn Glacier and died: the first victims of the Matterhorn. However, Whymper survived the first ascent and is celebrated as the conqueror of the Matterhorn.
